2015 White2Tea "Poundcake" - Tread Carefully

tread carefully

I'm drinking 2015 Poundcake, produced by White2Tea and from what I have gathered from the internets, a gentleman by the name of Paul, who has pressed this cake and overseen the sourcing and processing of the raw materials herein.  I am partial to boutique pu er brands, whether they be Western mom n pop or the other more commercial Chinese variety.  I have more experience with the latter, and just within the last two years or so have I really been exposed to laowai (foreigner) productions.  Like a timid little kitten, I dab at the surface of these waters.

proceed with caution 

My pu er drinking background is well rooted in plantation tea from big factories.  The very first pu er I drank (which I hated) was a late 80's CNNP raw production (likely a Dayi cake), that was served to me by a man who is not shy about brewing old raw teas to the consistency and color of soy sauce.  I actually remember him saying to me: "来点酱油吧!" which roughly translates to, "here, have some soy sauce!" while serving me some very very expensive tea.  I don't know why I'm having flashbacks of this moment when drinking Paul's Poundcake, and yet, I am.  

The Poundcake is sweet, light and has substantial mass - all attributes that I find immediately noticeable and appealing.  It has definite Yiwu in the front-end, though I'd say perhaps it strays into lesser Simao territory.  I say that because it does not finish like many proper Yiwu teas that I come across.  "Outlier Yiwu", as Paul describes this production is probably accurate, but what exactly does that entail?  

There is much obscurity in White2tea offerings.  I do understand Paul as a champion of honestly labeling teas and not cramming provenance and vintages down our throats.  While some may appreciate this marketing device , in this case I find it a tad dubious.  Sometimes "not knowing" can be purposefully disingenuous.  Forgive me for being so cynical, though, a skim through Paul's blog hints to me that he feels rather poorly about the state of the Yunnan pu er market.  Is there a way to channel that sort of fear and distrust into his customers?  Will they pay a premium for his white2knight (sorry, lol) sourcing philosophy?  Is there a reason a disclaimer must appear on his Old Arbor tea very matter-of-fact-ly declaring he donno how old it is?  It seems like just a little too much effort is being placed on how honest our seller is.  

For now, I can only assume that intentions are good.  I think back to my first time tasting pu er in all its soy sauce-ness.  I wish I had Poundcake then.  It's a welcoming tea that is easy to drink, though has a slightly tannic finish when challenged.  It won't age well I'm afraid, both due to the compression and the roughness at the end, then consider that most of the Poundcake in existence will be travelling to the USA and EU- not a particularly wet environment.  There is huigan, but overall chaqi is lacking.  Perhaps Yiwu, but weak in its Yiwu-ness.  

I have not talked about price, yet.  Because those of you that adore Poundcake will probably not want to hear it.  This tea is not worth 25 cents a gram.  I hear the mob chanting, I hear the clang of pitchfork against shovel.  This cake costs 105 dollars for 357 grams, shipped to the USA.  I don't know how I feel about vendors pressing these 200g cakes and selling them for semi inflated prices due to less sticker shock.  The Chinese started doing this years ago and found that there is "hangover" in people actually doing the price per gram calculations.  I find a certain contradiction in the marketing strategy of W2T.  It seems the seller distrusts farmers, merchants in China for overstating product value and yet uses the same style of questionable sales tactics that he supposedly rebels against (ie the 200g bing - a hallmark of Chinese pu er trickery).  In the end the buyer must ask him or herself this:  "would I pay 105 dollars for this tea in its traditional 357g form?"  My answer is a resounding no.  Though that's hypocritical because I did indeed buy it, and it has since sold out on the website, so most of you have probably answered "yes", instead.  

I will drink Poundcake the way it was intended to be drank - fast.  There's nothing I can see that requires mellowing out in the future, and there's nothing I can see that will improve with age that isn't already apparent.  Being one year old, I think I'm enjoying this tea (and I do enjoy it, somewhat) in its very prime.  I can't say I'll be buying any more tea from White2tea, as it is currently priced.  I'm sure Paul works very hard in sourcing the teas he believes his customers want to drink, and I am inclined to believe that most of his customers want to fork over a cable subscription for the privilege.  I cannot be a part of this population, I'm afraid.

I must note to you the reader that I have also purchased the 2015 Little Walk and Milk,Cream, and Alcohol.  I am hesitant to review them (they still remain untouched in their wrappers) because I know the dear place W2T has in many western pu er drinkers' hearts.  I will give them my ample and unbiased attention.  Whether I have anything to say about them in the future remains to be seen.

 

 

2005 Shu Daizi (书呆子)Bingdao - Phantom Cake

Today, another cake from a little known Chinese supplier, Shu Daizi (translation: Bookworm or Nerd).  The logo of the company is a large-headed, thin-necked Chinese Doug Funny with glasses, which makes me wonder who they want drinking their tea.  Marketing is a very vague brand of voodoo in China, and they miss the mark by quite a margin when trying to figure out their target demographic.  The resulting marketing tactic for online retail is generally "cast a wide net, see who we catch".  Shu Daizi is such a company, operating under the pretense of "boutique" and "quality based" tea, but really is online subsidiary presence of pu'er distribution and wholesale giant Kunming Hongde Tea Co. Ltd - a massive tea distributor in Kunming.  It's no wonder that the 2 "golden crown" seller rating of Shu Daizi Teashop on Taobao.com is a feat few tea vendors have achieved.  One thing can be sure about buying tea from Shu Daizi or Hongde for that matter:  it's not going to be fake tea.  Hongde works directly with the factories to carry, store, and distribute teas by many of the largest names in Pu'er (Dayi, Xiaguan, 6FTM, CNNP, etc).  This is Kunming storage on the largest scale.  You will not find prized 25 year old CNNP or Dayi teas in their shop, which is a good thing.  Anyone trying to sell aged big name plantation cake on Taobao is worthy of suspicion, regardless of gleaming reputations or high vendor ratings.  I will talk more about this after the tasting.  That brings us to the tea we have today - an attempt by Shu Daizi to private label and produce tea of their own.  

The cake is loosely compressed in the China sense, much more similar to many of the western laowai productions.  I'm not sure why western vendors loosely press teas, though I am fairly confident in saying most Chinese cakes are tighter than expat cakes.  This is a tangent for a another post.  Inspecting the leaves, a fair amount of bud, indicating some care was put forth in sorting the raw material which is comforting.  At the price of 26 dollars, I wasn't expecting a whole lot, though that's not to say a 26 dollar cake cant knock my socks off.  Quite a lot of broken leaves too which is a bummer, but not a deal breaker in any real sense.

tippy, buddy, broken

The honest bit of information we are told about one of Shu Daizi's best sellers, the 2005"ish" Bingdao shengpu is the "ish".  The description of the tea states that the maocha (loose processed tea) was from around 2005.  I'm not sure about the variance in years, but at least we know it's about ten years old at the time of this writing.  Taobao vendors will be downright shameless in lying about age.  Shu Daizi does not do this for any other of their cakes, which are labeled by year and place quite clearly.  I'm not sure why this cake stands out, but I appreciate the attempt at semi honesty.  

I brew this in a 100cc teapot with water just under boiling for 6-8 seconds (including the time it takes to pour out).  If the material is good, and the tea is aged, the first brew will start to suggest some character without throwing me warning signs to back off.  In the case of this tea, so far so good.  True golden amber now, much thicker than the rinse, viscous in appearance.  I'm happy to see this tea is boldly showing its colors in the first steeping.  There is a mineral/medicinal smell coming from the liquor which is generally unwelcome for me, but it's faint and hopefully will not be apparent so much on the mouth as it is in the nose.  Oh no, this tea looks a little dry.

first brew, yo

I must say the first brewing of this cake is strong and astringent.  The bitterness is not a flash in the pan but a persistent gnawing at the corners of the mouth.  That sounds more discouraging than it actually is.  There's a difference between the sour bitterness of bad or overbrewed tea and the thumping waves of kuwei that can become other things like nuttiness or sweetness or even better, huigan.  The medicinal aspect of the tea is still there, and I fear it will remain or intensify.  This tea seems to have dried out a little in its Kunming storage.  Putting two and two together, $26, probably kept in a large, airy warehouse for 10 years in Kunming dry storage, I'm apprehensive about what comes next.  I move on cautiously into the second brewing.  I will not be pushing this tea much harder so the parameters will be slightly cooler, for the same amount of time.  

The bitterness is a little calmer in the second and third steepings, and the medicinal has given way slightly to the mineral aspects of the tea.  The sweetness and nuttiness all make brief but fleeting appearances.  Huigan is present yet illusive in a way that's hard to explain.  The more I concentrate on the existence of huigan, the less it seems to actually exist.  Phantom tea.  

in the cup

I can't say that all the positive notes of the tea are washed away by how hard the tea is to figure out.  I truly think the storage conditions ruined it a little or made it harder to navigate.  I can see signs of potential, and small things I might do differently next time I drink it, but I don't think I'll be revisiting it anytime soon.  It'll be interesting to see how it ages past the "around" 10 year mark in a wetter storage condition.  At 26 dollars per cake, I think it's fairly priced.  Certainly not undrinkable, but certainly not something I will crave.  

#imconfused

 

 

2016 Shujian "Mahei" - Orientation, Introduction

Aptly, so aptly I entitle my very first post on this website "Orientation", as if all things are proximal to only me.  It was a toss-up between "Origins" and "Orientation", but I chose orientation because it actually sounds less narcissistic.  It seems so stupid now and self involved, but I cannot change the title, it's done.  The title cannot be anything other than that very honest and ugly part of myself that is trying to frame the universe in relation to only the things I want to believe.  So this website will be an exercise in loosening and breathing and tasting.  "I am orientating myself to other things and people, and tea."  It's a matter of positioning, perspective, relativity and respect.  This thing exists with or without me.  I must respect with it is in spite of what I want it to be.  Without imparting on it my own world view, I must come to know this thing in a cup.  I must wholly allow it to unfurl itself in its own time, at its own pleasure.  One must have a sense of openness when enjoying tea.  Happiness is abundant in its small chaotic revelations.  

2016 Shujian Tea Co. "Mahei" - Mahei, Yiwu, Yunnan Province

peekabo

For a young cake pressed late in the spring of 2016, this cake is tight.  I hesitate to make claims about how it was pressed as I have no idea, but probably via good ol' hydraulics.  Innocent young Yiwu Mahei cakes commanding the pseudo "premium" price of 32 USD are expected to store well.  Though Shujian has only fairly recently thrown their name into the pu'er hat, the people that work there and produce tea are well steeped (heh) in the tea culture of Yunnan.  This is all evident in the way they talk about tea.  More on this later, but initial impressions of the cake leave me full of anticipation.  If this is one of the lowest priced cakes Shujian produces, the company is no bull. Despite the tight compression, I am able to pry large satisfying chunks of dry leaf away for visual examination and first steeping.

I want a kick in the throat, and something to cut through the fried food fest I had for lunch.  This cake is astringent from the get go.  The bitterness of it is this pleasing and gradually ascends into a slight numbness on the tip of the tongue.  The numbness subsides and is replaced by a very discernible coating of the back of the mouth and throat.  After the first infusion, I am left with sweetness that lingers and is persistent.  In the cup, and on the lid a heavy savory, umami scent.  The taste, though in the mouth was fairly mild.  This is a clear winner for the money.  It was only 32 dollars pre shipping.  I am floored.  When was the last time I had a 32 dollar boutique cake that I liked as much as this?  I can't recall.  Let's continue, because I really want to get to the bottom of this. 

hey, bud

I push the tea a little harder on the second go.  It's hotter water, for a smidgen longer.  If you want to get into specifics, just below boiling for about 10-12 seconds.  As I peek into the opening of my teapot, I am treated to whole spring buds attached at the stem to two smaller open leaves.  This tea is 32 dollars?  This is undoubtedly first flush spring material, picked with expertise, wok'ed with care, processed with minimal degradation.  I suspect western vendors would have charged over 100 dollars for this cake, and indeed I have some cakes acquired through the 老外 (laowai) channels that taste similar to this, but are thrice it's price.  I suspect more devious Chinese vendors would have labelled this High Mountain Ancient Tree Gushu Blah Blah so that they might also charge the 500-600 RMB price for this cake that they charge for every cake to every tea tourist, ever.  

The second, harder infusion does not render the tea bitter beyond a pleasant 苦味 (kuwei) that I was slightly missing from the first brewing.  It all translates into sweetness, 回甘 (huigan), energy.  
I will tell you now, that by the 5th brewing the tea falls hard and fast.  The liquor becomes noticeably less blond-amber and just becomes blond.  Viscosity takes a noticeable hit as well.  Swallowing it gives a very mineral-water like sensation that no longer lingers in the mouth, but clears the mouth quickly and washes away with it some of good tides of earlier pots.  I stop the tea here.  With some age, should come a little more longevity.  I have a 桶 (tong) so I'll be able to age it nicely here in Chicago storage(?).

I must sing praises of Shujian Tea Co.  Aside from Mahei (which is probably not entirely true), they don't pretend to be much else.  They reveal nothing on their wrapper aside from a rather cheesy "Kung Fu Pu'er" label.  Initially you might think "oh that's gawdy...a guy with a sword and a straw hat?"  But after being in possession of teas from this company I fully understand that their interpretation of Kung Fu has nothing to do with martial arts, and everything to do with what Kung Fu or Gongfu (功夫).