Aptly, so aptly I entitle my very first post on this website "Orientation", as if all things are proximal to only me. It was a toss-up between "Origins" and "Orientation", but I chose orientation because it actually sounds less narcissistic. It seems so stupid now and self involved, but I cannot change the title, it's done. The title cannot be anything other than that very honest and ugly part of myself that is trying to frame the universe in relation to only the things I want to believe. So this website will be an exercise in loosening and breathing and tasting. "I am orientating myself to other things and people, and tea." It's a matter of positioning, perspective, relativity and respect. This thing exists with or without me. I must respect with it is in spite of what I want it to be. Without imparting on it my own world view, I must come to know this thing in a cup. I must wholly allow it to unfurl itself in its own time, at its own pleasure. One must have a sense of openness when enjoying tea. Happiness is abundant in its small chaotic revelations.
2016 Shujian Tea Co. "Mahei" - Mahei, Yiwu, Yunnan Province
peekabo
For a young cake pressed late in the spring of 2016, this cake is tight. I hesitate to make claims about how it was pressed as I have no idea, but probably via good ol' hydraulics. Innocent young Yiwu Mahei cakes commanding the pseudo "premium" price of 32 USD are expected to store well. Though Shujian has only fairly recently thrown their name into the pu'er hat, the people that work there and produce tea are well steeped (heh) in the tea culture of Yunnan. This is all evident in the way they talk about tea. More on this later, but initial impressions of the cake leave me full of anticipation. If this is one of the lowest priced cakes Shujian produces, the company is no bull. Despite the tight compression, I am able to pry large satisfying chunks of dry leaf away for visual examination and first steeping.
I want a kick in the throat, and something to cut through the fried food fest I had for lunch. This cake is astringent from the get go. The bitterness of it is this pleasing and gradually ascends into a slight numbness on the tip of the tongue. The numbness subsides and is replaced by a very discernible coating of the back of the mouth and throat. After the first infusion, I am left with sweetness that lingers and is persistent. In the cup, and on the lid a heavy savory, umami scent. The taste, though in the mouth was fairly mild. This is a clear winner for the money. It was only 32 dollars pre shipping. I am floored. When was the last time I had a 32 dollar boutique cake that I liked as much as this? I can't recall. Let's continue, because I really want to get to the bottom of this.
hey, bud
I push the tea a little harder on the second go. It's hotter water, for a smidgen longer. If you want to get into specifics, just below boiling for about 10-12 seconds. As I peek into the opening of my teapot, I am treated to whole spring buds attached at the stem to two smaller open leaves. This tea is 32 dollars? This is undoubtedly first flush spring material, picked with expertise, wok'ed with care, processed with minimal degradation. I suspect western vendors would have charged over 100 dollars for this cake, and indeed I have some cakes acquired through the 老外 (laowai) channels that taste similar to this, but are thrice it's price. I suspect more devious Chinese vendors would have labelled this High Mountain Ancient Tree Gushu Blah Blah so that they might also charge the 500-600 RMB price for this cake that they charge for every cake to every tea tourist, ever.
The second, harder infusion does not render the tea bitter beyond a pleasant 苦味 (kuwei) that I was slightly missing from the first brewing. It all translates into sweetness, 回甘 (huigan), energy.
I will tell you now, that by the 5th brewing the tea falls hard and fast. The liquor becomes noticeably less blond-amber and just becomes blond. Viscosity takes a noticeable hit as well. Swallowing it gives a very mineral-water like sensation that no longer lingers in the mouth, but clears the mouth quickly and washes away with it some of good tides of earlier pots. I stop the tea here. With some age, should come a little more longevity. I have a 桶 (tong) so I'll be able to age it nicely here in Chicago storage(?).
I must sing praises of Shujian Tea Co. Aside from Mahei (which is probably not entirely true), they don't pretend to be much else. They reveal nothing on their wrapper aside from a rather cheesy "Kung Fu Pu'er" label. Initially you might think "oh that's gawdy...a guy with a sword and a straw hat?" But after being in possession of teas from this company I fully understand that their interpretation of Kung Fu has nothing to do with martial arts, and everything to do with what Kung Fu or Gongfu (功夫).